Stu Meltzer weighs fish outgoing for customers in a wholesale cooler at Fearless Fish Market in Providence, R.I.David L. Ryan/Globe Staff
“Sustainable seafood,” can be a misleading phrase depending on where the fish is coming from. Some countries lack rigorous fisheries management system and enforcement practices. But the United States is the most strict, and has a track record of reviving stocks that were previously depleted, he said. “Underutilized” is another: That term “tells people no one wants this, and that’s why you should want it.”
But the most counterintuitive thing I learned during our meeting was this: We should stop talking about fish being “fresh.”
Meltzer told me he never describes fish being “fresh,” which consumers typically think refers to the amount of time between when the fish was caught and when it came into the market or was plated at their favorite restaurant. Instead, he said, consumers should be asking about quality, which has everything to do with the handling of the fish. And he’s launched a new program at his market that focuses on just that: Ikejime.
Ikejime is a centuries-old Japanese method where the fish is killed immediately after being caught by driving a spike into its brain. The blood is drained immediately, and then the fish is put on ice. (Here’s a beginner’s guide on how to do it from the official Ike Jime Federation.) The process leads to significantly longer shelf life, and studies have shown the fish ultimately has better taste, texture, and appearance when you’re ready to eat it.
Atlantic Sea Bream at Fearless Fish Market in Providence, R.I.David L. Ryan/Globe Staff
It’s very different from the more conventional method, Meltzer explained, in which fish often suffocate, are not bled, and are not always sufficiently chilled. All of that can lead to faster decomposition.
“It’s the reason why so many people have bad quality experiences with fish,” he said.
The quick death of the ikejime method significantly decreases the amount of stress and trauma the fish experiences after being caught. The more it struggles, the more cortisol, adrenaline, and lactic acid it produces, and its body temperature also rises. That combination can turn the muscle tissue into mush, negatively impact the taste, and result in lower-quality meat.
“If you stress an animal out at the time of death, it has a deleterious effect on its eating quality,” Andrew Tsui, the president of the Federation, told Fast Company in 2016. “Some would say it’s sort of an effort toward animal welfare. A more cynical view is maybe it’s an effort to improve the quality of the food. Either way, the science lines up right.”
A view of Atlantic Sea Bream fish getting ready to be displayed in the case at Fearless Fish Market.David L. Ryan/Globe Staff
Chefs from around the world are using the ikejime technique, particularly those serving quality sushi and sashimi, and those at Michelin-starred restaurants who are getting creative with ceviches, crudo, and other plates. In Rhode Island, some aspects of the ikejime method were common practice in the Point Judith area, where fishermen would bleed large and jumbo fluke. But most of Meltzer’s wholesalers did not use this method, and so the only way for him to get fish that had been harvested using ikejime techniques was to develop his own supply chain.
Meltzer partnered with Hirotsugu Uchida, an environmental professor at the University of Rhode Island and regular customer at the Fearless Fish Market, to start supplying his store. Uchida received funding from the Saltonstall Kennedy Grant at NOAA to study developing a market for ikejime fish in Rhode Island and beyond. Meltzer and a group of fishermen, who earned certifications through the Ike Jime Federation, have recruited a handful of fishermen to learn and do the ikejime process.
Customers at Fearless Fish Market order at the counter. David L. Ryan/Globe Staff
Right now, they’re primarily using this method for fluke, black sea bass, tautog, wild striped bass, sea robin, bluefish, and dogfish. Later this year, they’ll be use it for weakfish and triggerfish, too. Meltzer sells the ikejime fish at the shop, to restaurants around Providence, and to wholesalers in Austin, Texas, and in New York City. Each invoice lists the fishermen who caught the fish, the landing port, and the date the fish was caught.
Ikejime is not exactly a household word to those who are not fishmongers or chefs. But Meltzer has discussed it prominently in his shop’s newsletter and on its social media accounts, where he has created videos discussing the process.
Meltzer opened Fearless Fish Market in 2019. The idea behind the brand was to address a lot of “the many unknowns” about fish while helping customers become more confident buying and cooking fish.
“Fish is a lot like wine… There are so many species and different cultures that cook it. There’s always something new to learn and understand,” said Meltzer. “I’d rather help cut through the misinformation that’s out there, and this is the next way I’m doing that.”
This story first appeared in The Food Club, a free weekly email newsletter about Rhode Island food and dining. Already a member of the club? Check your inbox for more news, recipes, and features in the latest newsletter. Not a member yet? If you’d like to receive it via e-mail each Thursday, you can sign up here.
Alexa Gagosz can be reached at alexa.gagosz@globe.com. Follow her @alexagagosz and on Instagram @AlexaGagosz.